The Comeback Kid: Jura Elixir 12

Music: DJ Cutman, “Legend of Korra – End Credits”

After the Superstition, I never expected much from Jura. A handful of people have told me, since, that the Superstition is something great, but it was bland, bland, sweet then bland when I tried it. Cue the Elixir. A dram that had been hailed as a great daily dram, sweet but not cloying, viscous and 46%. All the right boxes for a nice sipper. That, and because it came in just under $60 in Ontario, I had to give it a go. After all, I’d only ever had one Jura, and you can’t really pass judgement on a distillery with one data point from one bottle. So, in came the Elixir.

Nose: Cinnamon and sugar on buttered toast, with a touch of hickory smoke. Biscuity goodness with some peaches and plums. Sherry here and there. A hair of acetone, but only if you look.

Palate: Weighty, almost immediately, with a tad bit of nip. Plums and grapes all over, almost Welch’s. A slight sour smoky, sweet and lovely.

Finish: Fruits all over the medium-length finish. Was hoping to get some of the biscuity nose in the finish, but no dice.

Grade: B+

Hard to discern way too much out of this whisky, but there is a lot going on here: it’s just in a basket of goodies so well married together that you just have to enjoy the mélange. At the price of $60 per bottle, this is a keeper on a shelf. A great party whisky, and perhaps even the base for a really good old fashioned or manhattan (cue the cringe from bourbon die-hards).

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A Cause for Celebration: Robert Burns Malt (The Arran Malt)

Music: The rousing chorus of “Auld Lang Syne”

The Robert Burns Malt by Arran is a truly special malt in that it is good, reasonably complex whisky, for so little. So rare is it that a single malt whisky comes in under $50 here in Ontario that, when one does, it is cause for celebration. My bottle comes in at 43%, which I hear is a step up from the previous 40% bottling. I could imagine that would be way too light.

Nose: Light and citrusy. Oranges, limes and sweet malt. A bright malt for a summer’s day.

Palate: Malty, bright and citrusy, much like the nose, but with a little alcohol nip. Lightly herbacious and smoky. Kind of what the Tobermory 10 tried to be, but without tasting so young.

Finish: Medium in length. Cinnamon and sugar on toast. A tad sour.

Grade: B

Given that summer is on it’s way, I’d pick up a bottle of this if it’s still about here in Ontario. It may even be one of those whiskies that plays well with soda on a hot day.

“And we’ll take a cup o’ kindness yet, for auld lang syne”

2014 Year in Review

It’s that time of year again where whisky fans/bloggers/maniacs alike are likely posting their favourites from their 2013 journeys. A banner year for my whisky cabinet has made deciding this year’s favourites very difficult! Some of the same categories as last year, some new ones. Because I was able to try so many great whiskies this year, I’ve given suggestions for Gold, Silver and Bronze instead of winner and runner-up.

Eligible Whiskies:

Highland Park 18
Glenfarclas 15
Glenfiddich 15 Distillery Edition
Ardmore Traditional Cask
Glenfarclas ‘105’
The Arran Malt 12yo CS
Bowmore 12
Amrut Fusion
Auchentoshan 12
Laphroaig 10
Bruichladdich Islay Barley 2006 (Dunlossit)
Bruichladdich 12yo (2nd ed.)
BenRiach 10yo Curiositas
Lagavulin 12yo CS (2012)
Laphroaig Cairdeas Origin (2012)
Bunnahabhain 12
Caol Ila 12
Tobermory 10
1998 Caol Ila Distillers Edition
Glendronach 12
Macallan Cask Strength
Highland Park 10
Port Charlotte 10yo
Caol Ila 19yo TWE

*Eligible whiskies must have been tasted for the first time in 2013, and I must have owned at least a 20cl bottle, and had at minimum, 4 drams of it.*

Favourite “Daily Dram” (cost effective @ Ontario prices, non-cask-strength)
Bronze:
BenRiach 10 Curiositas
Silver
: Highland Park 10yo
Gold: Bunnahabhain 12yo

Favourite Cask-Strength/Overproofed
Bronze: Macallan Cask Strength
Silver: Caol Ila 19yo TWE
Gold: Laphroaig Cairdeas Origin (2012)

Favourite Peated
Bronze:
Lagavulin 12 CS (2012)
Silver
: Caol Ila 19yo TWE
Gold: 
Laphroaig Cairdeas Origin (2012)

Favourite Unpeated
Bronze: Highland Park 18
Silver
: Glenfarclas 10yo `105′
Gold: Macallan Cask-Strength

Favourite No Age Statement
Bronze: Aberlour a’Bunadh (Batch 39)
Silver
: Macallan Cask-Strength
Gold: 
Laphroaig Cairdeas Origin (2012)

Favourite Overall
Bronze: Bunnahabhain 12yo
Silver
: Macallan Cask Strength
Gold: 
Laphroaig Cairdeas Origin (2012)

After arriving too late in Montreal to grab the Cairdeas there this summer, a stroke of luck would have it that the LCBO stocked several cases in the late summer. Turned out to be my favourite whisky of the year. Sadly, the Cairdeas is a limited edition, but I’ve got 2 bottles in my inventory, one of which is ear-marked for my bachelor party in late summer. This year wasn’t without its unfortunate whisky news, with the Macallan Cask Strength being discontinued this year. It may be the last affordable Macallan of that level of quality we may see here in Ontario… or anywhere. Even with its dwindling worldwide stocks, it’s still worthy of this year’s Silver. Lastly, I’m excited by what Burn Stewart has done with the Bunnahabhain line, and I was thoroughly impressed by the 12yo, which is why it earns the Bronze spot for 2013, earning points for a combination of deliciousness, affordability and availability. While the 19yo TWE Caol Ila is better, it’s also considerably more expensive, and limited edition. I don’t know what the 12yo was like at 43% personally, but the 46.3% bottling has earned relatively more praise in the whisky community, and gets thumbs up from me. My hope is to try their 18yo before the year is out.

Here’s to another great year at “Whisky, Empirically”, where we will get to review #100. I’m about 15 drams shy of that at the moment. I have also recently tried the Ardbeg Corryvreckan, which will give any other whisky a fight for top spot in 2014… and we’re only a week in. Perhaps a worth contender, we will also finally get a review of my 1991 Mortlach Signatory from the Whisky Exchange that I picked up in November 2011. I have been saving it for the next meeting of the Scotch Lads, who have sadly been cities apart all year. With luck, we’ll remedy that this month.

Tall, Dark and Handsome: Highland Park 18

Music: The Tragically Hip, “The Darkest One”

This is an example of why you should have whisky friends (of course, aside from the fact that whisky is best enjoyed with friends): trading samples. As a boy, I traded hockey cards. Now that I’m older, I trade whisky. Perhaps the best way to expand one’s whisky knowledge without spending a bunch of money.

A sample of the Highland Park 18yo came to me via a trade for a sample of the 2012 Lagavulin 12yo cask strength, and a sample of the Highland Park 10yo (40%).

Nose: Rich. Bready. Floral, Fruit salad, apples, malt and sherry in the back ground. Molasses and peat smoke.
Opens up with 3 drops of water.

Palate: Plent viscous. Sponge toffee. Oatmeal and brown sugar. Smoke and molasses. Cherries, chocolate, peat and spearmint.

Finish: Medium-long, warming. Pepper, cherry stones, sponge toffee and smoke.

Grade: A-

The reviews are right in that this dram is the most balanced one flavour-wise. It has a little bit of everything, and in that way its remarkable. It’s also balanced between nose and palate. At 46%, this dram would likely be an A. For all the nitpicking, I’ll join in the chorus to say that the Highland Park 18yo is one damn fine dram.

“Where the wild are strong, and the strong are the darkest ones… and you’re the darkest one.”

A Youngen, But a Good’en: Highland Park 10

Music: Jethro Tull, “Locomotive Breath”

I’m so often loath to lend a liver to these releases; the younger, weaker, attempts to make one’s stock stretch amidst growing demand. I had always figured I’d patronize these bottlings when all that is good in the Scotch world had either run dry, or was so far out of my price range that I have no other reasonable choice. However, I had heard good things about the HP 10yo from fellow whisky lovers, and at $60, it seemed worth a try. Now, to be fair, the HP12 used to be $60. Sadly, it is now $70 (a price it reached within a year), and it seems that for HP, the prices are already starting to take off. In hopes of picking up a reliable “daily dram”, I decided to give the HP a go.

Nose: Wow. This is 40%? Really? Given the recent night with some high-end Chivas, the big boys should take notice. HP’s new stuff is big. Honey heather and sponge toffee (think Crunchie Bar) like crazy. American Oak on the forefront, fudge and salted caramels. Give it some time and you get oranges and green apples. Also a hint of smoked bacon with some corn syrup.

Palate: About as viscous as the HP12, but enough for a 40%-er at 10 years. Honey biscuits, sponge toffee. Sea salt. Peat smoke and tart green apples.

Finish: Medium finish, light smokiness, bready, sweet and a tad tart.

Grade: B

At the (North American) Highland Park Standard of 43%, this would probably kick. I hear the cask strength is amazing (the whisky live bottling was 59.3%). This is one of those guaranteed daily drams. Fits the profile and the pocketbook. Of course, I really love HP, and to boot, I love a good clean American Oak whisky. If I want my thick sherried whiskies and my dark peat monsters, I know where to look. A good clean American Oak whisky isn’t so easy to find in these parts, at these prices. In that role, the HP 10 will have a spot in my cabinet for a while…

“Old Charlie stole the handle, and the train it won’t stop going–no way to slow down.”

Grass is Always Greener: Tobermory 10

I bought this bottle before a recent family camping trip. I had hoped to pick up the new Glenfiddich 14yo Rich Oak, as it was likely to go well with the cigars we brought, but this was all the nearby store had. It just so happened to be pouring rain at the time, and I was pressed enough for time that I couldn’t go anywhere else.

Nose: Light, fresh and buttery. Vegetal notes and fresh mown grass all over this one. You’d almost think it was a lowland. Pear, oak and pepper. No mistaking the youth on this one.

Palate: Very fresh. Buttery and sweet with grassy notes. Its like a better Glendullan, but nothing to write home about.

Finish: Barley, light pepper, medium finish.

Grade: B-

This is one of those simple reviews that can be summed up with few words: a fine sipper, but a bit plain and a bit young.

A Dram to Share with the Angels: The Arran Malt 12yo CS (Batch 1)

This whisky is tempermental.  It’s one of those whiskies that is better without much water at all (maybe a teaspoon). Mark Dermul, the “Toshan Man” says this is a swimmer, but I just don’t get that at all. In fact, I find the opposite: more than a teaspoon kills it. Of course, it’s true that whiskies taste different to different people, so maybe my palate is weak enough that it requires that bang of flavour.

I’ve found that, instead of diluting it with copious amounts of water to calm it down, it’s really better to let it sit for 30 minutes or longer. Letting the angels have a little bit opens it up wonderfully. At least I find I get more from the nose this way. Without too much water, it’s a rich cereal and nut malt first, and soft fruits second. With water, it’s mostly soft fruits, but everything is diluted. A strange malt where the nose dies in water.

Nose: Cereals, brown sugar, apples and honey. The profile sits somewhere between the Nadurra and my old Ben Nevis 17yr Signatory. A little more water and we have soft fruits (apricot, nectarines), vanilla and some serious baked bread.

Palate: Barley, cereals, nectarine, apricot and spice. It’s almost like the “peaches and cream” instant oatmeal that you get from Quaker, except so much better. Nowhere near as artificial. It’s as if it was being made fresh for you.

Finish: Medium-long, peppery and fruity. Some serious apples going on here, but only for a short while. Brown butter on the end.

Grade: B

In early stages, much like my struggles with the Springbank 12 Claret Wood, I found this dram to be sometimes dull and lifeless (no nose to speak of, and a palate that was rather weak) to something that was quite noteworthy, and somewhat beyond it’s years. On a bad day, it performs similar to Cragganmore 12: an average malt that could be something if more care was put into it. On a good day, it rivals some of my favourite young cask-strengths.

After almost an entire bottle, I’ve settled that it’s only rarely “spectacular”, and there isn’t really a method to get it there every time. It’s rough around the edges, and would probably be better @ 14 years. That is only conjecture, though, as I have not tried their standard OB 14yr.